Cashmere common sense

Fine fluff of a goat. The fiber is fine and tender, high-grade wool textile raw materials, textile fine wool thread and high-grade tweed, precision and light warmth, the famous "cashmere" is cashmere spinning. Goats produce fleece in seasonality, in April ~ May every year. In order to avoid the natural fragmentation of cashmere, it is common to fleece immediately when the cashmere is topped. When fleece, it is advisable to grasp the back of the spine first, then the two ribs, and finally the abdomen, head, and legs, and the quality of the pile grabbed in this order is high. Cashmere is divided into three types: white velvet, green velvet and purple velvet, with white velvet having the highest value.The fluff obtained from cashmere goats and goats that can be fleeced, is a special animal hair, which is a valuable textile raw material. In the past, the Asian region of Kashmir was a distribution center for cashmere exports to Europe. The international market habit calls cashmere "Kashmir" and the Chinese homonym "cashmere". Cashmere has excellent characteristics such as fine, light, tender, smooth and good warmth, and is mainly used for pure spinning or blending with fine wool to make cashmere sweaters, cashmere scarves, cashmere tweed, cashmere coats and other high-grade valuable textiles.　　

Cashmere goats generally develop in alpine regions, covered with a thick outer quilt, and the inner layer is covered with delicate and soft fluff, and the fluff is naturally scattered at the turn of spring and summer every year. Breeders usually use iron to grasp the sheep to comb the fluff during the hair removal season. After preliminary processing and combing treatment, remove the coarse hair, impurities, dust and other substances contained in it, and separate the clean fine fluff is called hairless, and the coarse hair rate of ordinary net lint is below 0.5%.

Cashmere has an irregular, thin and deep curl made up of a layer of scales and cortex. The villi do not have a pulp , and the coarse hairs mostly do. Cashmere scale density 60~70 pcs/mm; The fiber diameter is thinner than fine wool. Chinese cashmere has a uniform diameter of 14.5~16 microns, Iranian cashmere 17.5~19 microns, and Afghan cashmere 16.5~17.5 microns. The uniform length of the fiber is 35~45 mm, the breaking length is about 17 kilometers, the straightening length is 3 times the natural length, the moisture absorption is stronger than wool, and the warmth is very good. Cashmere is more sensitive to acid, alkali and heat than fine wool, even at lower temperatures and lower concentrations, and is particularly sensitive to chlorine-containing oxidants.

The annual commercial volume of cashmere in the world is about 6,000 tons, and China accounts for about 3,000 tons, ranking first in the world and the best quality. China's cashmere production fields are mainly in Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Liaoning, Shaanxi, Gansu, Shanxi, Ningxia, Tibet, Qinghai and other provinces and regions, and each sheep produces about 200 grams of wool per year. The world's leading exporters of cashmere are China, Mongolia, Iran, India, Afghanistan and Turkey, and the top consumers are the United States, the United Kingdom and Japan.

Cashmere (Cashmere) is developed in the surface skin of goats, hidden in the root of the goat's coarse hair a thin layer of fine wool, growing in the cold in winter, resisting wind cold, scattered after warming up in spring, naturally conforming to the weather, is a rare special animal fiber. The reason why cashmere is very valuable, not only because of the scarcity of production (only 0.2% of the world's total animal fiber production), but also because of its excellent quality and characteristics, bargaining in grams, is considered to be "fiber gemstone", "fiber queen", is currently all textile raw materials that human beings can apply can not be compared, so it is also known as "soft gold". About 70% of the world's cashmere is produced in China, and its quality is also better than that of other countries.

Cashmere is a rare special animal fiber (different from sheep wool), which is a valuable textile raw material, and is called "the diamond of fiber" and "soft gold" abroad. Because the Asian Kashmir region was a distribution center for the export of cashmere to Europe in previous history, it is customary to call cashmere "Kashmir Cashmere" internationally; China adopts its homonym "cashmere".

Cashmere is the fluff combed from the goat, and the quality of the fluff produced by the cashmere goat is the best, and every spring is when the goat is shedding, the fluff grabbed from the body of the goat with a special iron comb is called raw fleece. The cashmere obtained after washing the raw wool is combed and removes the coarse hairs, dead hairs and dander in the original pile, which is called lintless. Cashmere comes in three colors: white, blue and purple, with white cashmere being the most valuable. China's plush-free quality specifications are divided into 5 grades, which are graded according to the sloppy rate, impurity rate and length targets, and the grading specifications of white velvet and purple velvet are also different.　

Cashmere yarn

Common sense to distinguish cashmere and cashmere products

Many people think that cashmere is fine wool, but in fact, cashmere differs with wool. Cashmere is developed on goats and wool is developed on sheep.

One: the difference between cashmere and wool

　　1. The scale display of wool is tighter and thicker than cashmere, and its shrinkage is greater than cashmere. The surface of the cashmere fiber is small and lubricated, and there is an air layer in the center of the fiber, so its weight is light and feels smooth and sticky.

　　2. The curl degree of wool is smaller than the curl degree of cashmere, the number of curl fibers, curling rate, and curl response rate of cashmere fiber are larger, which is suitable for processing into knitwear with full feeling, tenderness and good elasticity, comfortable and natural to wear, and has superior recovery characteristics, especially in the aspects of no shrinkage after washing, good shape retention, etc. Because cashmere has a high degree of natural curl, it is tightly displayed in spinning and weaving, and the holding force is good, so the warmth is good, which is 1.5 times ~ 2 times that of wool.

　　3. The leather content of cashmere is higher than that of wool, and the rigidity of cashmere fiber is better than that of wool, that is, cashmere is softer than wool.

　　4. The fineness of cashmere is uneven than wool, and the appearance quality of the finished product is better than wool.

　　5. The fineness of cashmere fiber is average, its density is smaller than wool, the cross-section is mostly regular round, and its finished product is lighter than that of wool finished products.

　　6. The hygroscopicity of cashmere is better than wool, and it can receive dyes abundantly and is not easy to fade. The moisture regain rate is high, and the resistance value is relatively large.

　　7. The acid and alkali resistance of wool is better than that of cashmere, and it is less damaged than cashmere when it encounters oxidants and restoratives.

　1. Cashmere fiber content

　　A. Pure cashmere knitwear should contain 100% cashmere fiber, considering that there are shape variations in cashmere fiber and elements mixed into wool without remuneration, its content shall not exceed 5%, that is, when the content of cashmere fiber in the product reaches 95% or more, it can be regarded as 100% cashmere and can be labeled as 100% cashmere.

　　B. Reduction of cashmere fiber content in blended products. (absolute percentage)

　　The percentage of cashmere fiber content in cashmere blended knitwear premium and first class products is promised to be biased towards 3%, that is, the reduction of cashmere fiber is not higher than 3%. Other fiber components in cashmere-blended knitwear are limited to animal fibers such as silk and wool and natural plant fibers such as cotton and linen.

　　2. Single component bias rate

　　Cashmere knitwear consists of pieces. When processing each cashmere knitwear, the individual components are designed according to factors such as the thickness of the yarn used, the density of the weave, etc. After production and processing, the single component of the product is not as light as 4% of the design component.

　　3. Top breaking strength

　　This target reflects the firmness of the product. The size of the top breaking strength target is related to the thickness of the yarn, the density of the weave, etc. The greater the breaking strength, the longer the service life of the product. Because cashmere fibers are fine, cashmere knitwear is less strong than ordinary wool knitwear. Combed cashmere knitwear has a top breaking strength of 225 kPa, and combed cashmere knitwear has a top breaking strength of 196 kPa.

　　4. Braiding density coefficient

　　The weave density factor only reviews the best and first class products of rough carded single-sided knitted fabrics. If this target is less than 1.0, the design of the weave density of the product is unsatisfactory, and the product is scattered.

　　5. Pilling

　　In the process of wearing and washing cashmere knitwear, it is forbidden to be rubbed from time to time, and the fiber end of its surface will be revealed, and a lot of plush appears on the surface, that is, "fluffing". If these hairs do not fall apart in real time during continuous wear, they will be entangled with each other and kneaded into many spherical particles, which are called "pilling" in mortal world. Cashmere knitwear pilling, which will deteriorate the appearance quality of the product. Cashmere fibers are thin and soft, making it easier to pill. The goal of reviewing this objective is to limit the pilling level of cashmere knitwear, and the pilling target is divided into 5 levels, with grade 1 being the worst and level 5 being the best. Excellent products are not less than 3-4 grades, and first-class products are not less than 3 grades.

　　6. Dichloromethane soluble substance

　　The Diazomethane soluble substance target refers to the determination of the composition of methylene chloride soluble substances contained in cashmere knitwear. It contains natural wool grease, oils and detergents added to the production process, and substances used in extraordinary disposal methods such as tenderizers. If the amount of oil added to the production process or the amount of softener used to add the feel of the product is not properly grasped, this target is exceeded. If this target is too high, it will cause the product to smell and feel sticky. This requires manufacturers to limit the amount of oil and additives during processing. The superior product is not higher than 1.5%, and the first grade product is not higher than 1.7%.

　　7. Slack shortening

　　Slack shortening refers to the size change of the product after washing under dynamics. If the production enterprise does not strictly control the weaving process and ironing process, it will form a product density of loose or small-sized products ironed into large-sized products, and the size deformation of the product after washing will affect wearing. After washing, the product should be controlled regardless of whether it is shortened or larger compared with the original size. +/-5% for Premium and First Grade.

　　8. Fastness to dyeing

　　The colorful cashmere knitwear is dyed. In the process of wearing these products, it will be affected by various external elements such as light, washing, ironing, sweat, friction, chemicals, etc., which requires the brilliance of the dyed cashmere products to adhere to the relative fastness. In mortal worlds, we call the function of dyed products that are resistant to external effects and can maintain their original brilliance "color fastness". The Color Fastness of cashmere knitwear is reviewed for a total of 5 objectives and evaluated by the number of levels, the higher the number of levels, the better the Color Fastness.

　　Lightfastness refers to the ability to determine the color of cashmere knitwear and resist natural light. Audit specifications for dark and light fastness to light vary from one to another.

　　Washability refers to the level at which the color of cashmere knitwear fades after washing in a specially formulated lotion (imitation of a common lotion).

　　Perspiration resistance refers to the level at which the color of cashmere knitwear fades after washing in specially formulated sweat (sweat excreted by the human body).

　　Water resistance refers to the level at which the color of cashmere knitwear fades after washing.

　　Friction resistance refers to the level at which the color of cashmere knitwear fades after friction.

 　　The detailed progression of the above five audit objectives is detailed in the FZ/T73009-1997 "Cashmere Knitwear" specification.

1, precious as gold: cashmere is the root of wool and the fluff on the flesh skin is called cashmere, is a very valuable textile raw materials, less content, high quality, expensive, enjoy the reputation of "soft gold" in the international market.

　　2. Soft texture and soft luster: cashmere clothing has excellent characteristics of delicate, tender and smooth, and the silk-like soft and bright natural luster has an alluring power.

　　3. Frivolous warmth: a cashmere clothing only needs about 300 grams, and the fineness of cashmere fiber is about 15 microns, so the fabric is dense and thin, and has natural curls, loose and light and contains air, so the warmth is good.

　　4. Comfortable and elastic, cashmere clothing has superior moisture absorption and breathability, close wear, feel comfortable, with a common feeling, strong natural gas smell color.

 　　5. Health care effect: cashmere clothing worn close to the body can promote the movement of hair follicles, stimulate blood reincarnation, and help reduce elegance and health care.

 Because cashmere products have excellent characteristics, although their price is high, they are still more and more loved by consumers. Therefore, when purchasing cashmere products, we should grasp the characteristics of cashmere products, namely: smooth, soft, soft and other characteristics. However, most consumers, through a single "feel" and "visual inspection", it is inevitable to identify the quality of cashmere products completely and proficiently, and can only gradually accumulate experience. At present, the most practical method, to buy cashmere products that do not suffer losses, still go to authentic stores to buy cashmere products, because cashmere products before entering the store, must be tested by professional prestige testing agencies, as long as the test can be verified after the price can be sold on the counter, otherwise rejected, such as consumers can buy products with tubes

 Textile industry normative rules: pure cashmere knitwear should contain 100% cashmere fiber, think that there are shape variations in cashmere fiber and non-remuneration mixed into wool elements, its content shall not exceed 5%, that is, when the content of cashmere fiber in the product reaches more than 95%, it can be regarded as 100% cashmere, and 100% cashmere can be marked on the product. Products with less than 95% content can only be called cashmere blended products. The percentage of the SD cashmere content should be identified. Some products are labeled with 100% Cashmere, only the English cashmere content label is the same as Chinese cashmere.

1. Look at the trademark. According to the rules, the cashmere content should be indicated on the trademark of the cashmere sweater. The higher the cashmere content, the more expensive it is. It is especially worth saving that the country's rules cashmere sweaters must contain more than 95% of the cashmere sweater, otherwise they will not be called cashmere sweaters.

　　2. Strong wear resistance. Because the blended products of cashmere and wool are stronger and more wear-resistant than pure cashmere, ordinary wool with the necessary proportion of blending is more robust; Pure cashmere is expensive, but it is not strong enough, and the wear resistance is worse than that of wool sweaters.

　　3. Specific weight. Cashmere sweaters of the same size are compared to cardigans, the former is clearly lighter than the latter.

　　4. Some manufacturers use worsted circular knitting grey fabric, after fleece, made into sweaters, pretend to be cashmere sweaters, this sweater feels thick and tender, and cashmere sweaters are very different from the characteristics of frivolous and delicate, should pay attention to identification.

As to why there are ultra-low-priced cashmere sweaters on the market, relevant people believe that one is a genuine cashmere sweater, which is sold at a reduced price due to broken codes, broken numbers, and outdated styles; There is also a blend, the inevitable cashmere mixed must be proportional wool, the less the lint content, the lower the price; The worst one is basically lint-free, the better is to take a wool sweater and pretend (cashmere is cashmere, sheep is cashmere-free), and the worst is not even high in wool.

　　1. Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region: annual output of 4200 tons of cashmere, mainly produced in Ordos City, Bayannur League, Alashan League, Xilin Gol League and Chifeng City. The cashmere fiber produced is long, soft and tender, large tensile, good luster, white color, mostly rock sugar color, moderate elasticity of velvet melon, round ball or steamed bun shape, containing less coarse hair, high lint rate. The quality of the ordinary western region is better than that of the eastern region, and the color is mainly white velvet. The output and quality of cashmere in the whole region rank first in China.

　　2. Tibet Autonomous Region: annual output of 592 tons of cashmere, mainly produced in Ali, Nagqu and Shigatse regions, and Jiping distributed in Ritu, Gaize, Geji, Nima, Culture, Banking and other counties. Among them, the quality of Japanese soil and reform is better. Its pending: fiber is fine, soft, soft luster, bending is mostly shallow bend, elastic, coat color is more mixed, pile fineness 14.5-15.5um, length 40-50mm, net lint rate of about 45%.

　　3. Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region: annual output of 810 tons of cashmere, mainly produced in Altay, Tacheng and Qinghe regions in northern Xinjiang, Aksu, Kashgar, Hedibu area in southern Xinjiang and Hami, Balikun and other places in eastern Xinjiang. Among them, the output of all parts of northern Xinjiang is large and the quality is better, followed by southern Xinjiang and eastern Xinjiang. Its characteristics: long fiber, large tensile force, good luster, more mixed color, poor softness of coarse loose hair. The fineness is 14-16um, the individual lint production is 150-300 grams, the impurity content is small, and the net pile rate is higher.

　　4. Qinghai Province: annual output of 420 tons of cashmere, mainly produced in Dulan, Wulan and Delingha in Haixi Prefecture, with large output and good quality in Haibei Prefecture. Its characteristics: the fluffy melon is loose, thin, the net pile rate is higher, and the cleaning rate is 60-62%.

　　5. Gansu Province: annual output of 410 tons of cashmere, mainly concentrated in northern Jiangsu, southern Sunan and Qingyang areas of Huanxian County, Huachi, Heshui and other places. Its characteristics: coarse fiber, less impurities, high cleaning rate, lint rate of about 46%, uniform fineness of 15.5um, short length of about 40mm.

　　6. Hebei Province: annual output of 400 tons of cashmere, mainly produced in the Taihang Mountains and the northern Zhangjiakou region and Chengde area. The production of purple velvet in Hebei Province is also large, concentrated in Dingxian, Tang County, Yixian and other places. It is pending: thick fiber, astringent feeling, long coarse hair, and translucent velvet. Melon seeds are varied, skin and other impurities are more content, and the quality is poor.

　　7. Liaoning Province: annual output of 310 tons of cashmere, with Gaizhou as the middle, radiating the Liaodong Peninsula. Mainly produced in Gaizhou, Zhuanghe, Xiuyan, Benxi, Liaoyang, Fengcheng, Kuandian, Wafangdian and other places. Its characteristics: long pile fiber, good drafting, tensile force, elasticity, blue and white light, good hand feeling, coarse fineness of 15.5-16.5um, net pile rate of about 58%.

　　8. Shandong Province: annual output of 280 tons of cashmere, mainly produced in the surrounding areas of Taishan and Yimeng Mountain, concentrated in Tai'an region and Zibo area. Its characteristics: the fiber is thin and short, the average degree and brilliance are better, the velvet melon contains more coarse hairs and impurities, and the velvet melon is large and loose.

　　9. Shaanxi Province: annual output of 780 tons of cashmere, mainly produced in the Yan'an region and Yulin region in northern Shaanxi, the quality of cashmere in Yulin region is better. Its characteristics: thin and short fiber, small melon seeds, more fluffy color. Purple velvet production accounts for the inevitable proportion, good feeling, moderate oiliness, large content of impurities such as coarse hair, and low cleaning rate and lint cleaning rate.

　　10. Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region: The annual output of cashmere is 390 tons, mainly concentrated in the Yinbei region at the eastern foot of Helan Mountain and the adjacent area of Liupanshan. Huinong, Pingluo, Yinchuan suburbs, Zhongwei, Haiyuan, Xiji, Guyuan and other places have a large output. Its characteristics: long fiber, good feeling, less impurities, high cleaning rate. However, due to the genetic influence of Zhongwei goats in local production areas, the coarse hair is fine and uniform 43um, and it is not easy to remove the coarse hair in the comb, giving the production formation a hard and difficult to meet the quality requirements.

　　11. Shanxi Province: annual output of 710 tons of cashmere, mainly scattered in Lüliang, Xinzhou and Linfen. It is mainly produced in Wuzhai, Yuanlan, Liishi, Xingxian, Xixian, Shilou, Yonghe and other places. Its characteristics: the velvet melon is small and thin, the fiber is thin and short, the length is about 40mm, the coarse loose hair is longer, the color is different in shade, and the hand feels astringent.